Abalakov thread

The Abalakov thread, also known as a V-thread, A-thread, or 0-thread (zero thread), is an ice protection technique named after its inventor, Soviet climber Vitaly Abalakov. The Abalakov thread is a common method of protecting oneself while ice climbing because it is easy to create, does not require the sacrifice of expensive gear, and can be very safe when used properly. An Abalakov thread is often used in multi-pitchice climbing routes. Because of its safety and convenience, the Abalakov thread is considered one of the most significant innovations in ice climbing. It significantly expanded the scope of possible routes and abseiling safety.

An Abalakov thread can be constructed using an ice screw, 1–2 metres (3.3–6.6 ft) of appropriate strength cord or webbing, and hook-like Abalakov threading device. Two holes are drilled in the ice, which interconnect at the ends to form a v-like channel in the ice. The cord or webbing is then threaded through this hole, and tied with a knot such as a fisherman's knot, or a water knot. This loop is then used to hang the abseiling rope. Abalakov thread can only be constructed in solid ice (or quality rock). The holes need to be drilled at the correct angle (about 45–50° compared to ice surface), and care must be taken that they interconnect. The surfaces of the holes need to have sufficient distance (about 17–20 centimetres, 6.7–7.9 in) between them. If the ice is not strong enough, it is possible to use two Abalakovs to balance the force, although if a second Abalakov thread is needed, an alternative route is strongly recommended.^[1]

A 2009 finding and experiments have shown a vertical rather than horizontal arrangement of the holes to be stronger (12%) (Smith, 2009). This configuration has been termed the A thread.^[2]

Si bien el sistema de anclaje Abalakov se considera tan resistente como cualquier otro sistema de fijación con tornillos de hielo, se suele utilizar un tornillo de hielo de reserva para el primer rápel. Esto aumenta la seguridad en caso de errores durante la instalación del sistema Abalakov y permite comprobar su resistencia.

Un hilo en V y un hilo en A son lo mismo, pero el término "hilo en A" a menudo se refiere a un hilo orientado verticalmente (un agujero encima del otro), mientras que un hilo en V está orientado horizontalmente (uno al lado del otro). ^{[ 3 ] [ 4 ]} A veces se hace referencia a un hilo en 0 cuando la cuerda se pasa a través de los agujeros en lugar de una pieza de cinta o cordón de sacrificio. La ventaja es que el escalador no deja rastro, sin embargo, la cuerda puede congelarse. ^{[ 5 ]} Normalmente utilizado en hielo, a veces también se utiliza en barranquismo cuando los anclajes tradicionales atornillados se han dañado o se dañarán durante la temporada de lluvias.

• Rappel
• Escalada en hielo
• Lista de inventos rusos

• El hilo de Abalakov