Hispanopedia WikiEl nudo Munter , también conocido como nudo italiano o mezzo barcaiolo , es un nudo simple y ajustable , comúnmente utilizado por escaladores , espeleólogos y rescatistas para controlar la fricción en un sistema de aseguramiento o cuerda de seguridad . A menudo se identifica erróneamente como nudo cruzado , [ 1 ] sin embargo, en el nudo cruzado la cuerda no regresa por su trayectoria original. Para los escaladores, este nudo también se conoce como HMS , abreviatura del término alemán Halbmastwurfsicherung , que significa medio nudo de ballestrinque para asegurar . Esta técnica se puede utilizar con un mosquetón de seguridad HMS especial en forma de pera, o cualquier mosquetón de seguridad lo suficientemente ancho como para dar dos vueltas a la cuerda.
A finales de la década de 1950, tres escaladores italianos, Mario Bisaccia, Franco Garda y Pietro Gilardoni, desarrollaron una nueva técnica de aseguramiento llamada "Mezzo Barcaiolo" (MB), que significa "la mitad del nudo que usan los marineros para asegurar un barco a una bita en un puerto". [ 2 ] El "MB" pasó a conocerse como nudo Munter después de que Werner Munter , un guía de montaña suizo , popularizara su uso en el alpinismo en la década de 1970. [ 3 ] Este nudo fue estudiado y luego promovido para su uso en la montaña (siendo reconocido oficialmente por la UIAA hacia finales de los años sesenta), por el Club Alpino Italiano y, en particular, por su Comisión Central de Materiales y Técnicas. [ 4 ]
El nudo de amarre consiste simplemente en enrollar una cuerda o cordón alrededor de un objeto, generalmente redondo, como un tubo, un poste o, más comúnmente, un mosquetón . Su principal función es la de controlar la velocidad de descenso en los sistemas de aseguramiento mediante fricción .
Método de operación
El nudo Munter genera fricción al rozarse la cuerda consigo misma y con el objeto que la rodea. No se produce abrasión localizada en ninguna parte de la cuerda, ya que es un nudo de movimiento continuo. Una característica muy útil del nudo Munter es su reversibilidad; se puede tirar de él desde cualquier lado de la cuerda y sigue funcionando con la misma eficacia. El nudo Munter es un nudo autorregulable. Cuanto mayor sea la carga, más se aprietan las curvas del nudo, generando así mayor fricción y autorregulación.
Uso para rapel
This hitch can be used to rappel or abseil down a vertical or semi-vertical wall, although it is not recommended as it causes severe twisting of the rope. Proper training should be undertaken before using the Munter hitch to rappel. Using this method to rappel is very hard on rope because of the rope on rope contact and is generally considered an emergency option only.
Use as load releasable tie off
As with most belay devices and some hitches the Munter can be tied off to maintain tension in a manner which is easily released under tension, often referred to as a Munter-Mule-Overhand or MMO.
The control rope (the rope not going to the load) is tied to the load rope with a mule knot (aka halter hitch) –not a noose (slipped overhand) –and the bight (loop) that sticks out is tied in an overhand around the load rope. A carabiner is then sometimes clipped through the end of the bight and around the load rope.
Examples of when a tie off would be employed include:
- tensioning the line for use as a track line
- fall restraint line
- restraining/guying purposes.
When a belayer needs to transfer the load from their harness to the anchor to escape the system: a rope grab (mechanical or friction knot/Prusik) is placed on the load line towards the load, rope is terminated on the rope grab (or the tails of accessory cord are used when using a cordelette with a Prusik as a rope grab) and runs back to the anchor where a Munter mule is tied under tension. The load can then be lowered (transferred) from the original belay onto the Munter Mule via the rope grab. The new line is often consider independent of the safety system so the original belay needs to be maintained throughout the process and secured back to the anchor before the system can be left unattended.
Use as a belay
A belay system incorporating the Munter hitch is the same as any other belay system, which incorporates a belayer to tend the rope and an anchor, which secures the belay system and belayer.
There are several advantages to the Munter hitch. It requires no additional hardware other than a carabiner. It is also the most common belay system which locks with the brake hand in line with the load, and as such is a more suitable method for direct belays than using a normal belay plate.[5] This can be useful when the anchor, carabiner and Munter hitch are above or behind the belayer whilst attention is paid to the loaded end of the rope. It can also more effectively dissipate heat than a belay device because no two surfaces of the rope are in contact with each other for more than an instant.
However, it places more bends in a rope than other belay methods, and creates significantly more friction on the outer sheath. Another disadvantage is that it can introduce significant twists to the rope. It is a versatile knot to know and can be used for full rope length vertical descents without the need for gloves.
The friction of the rope against the screw on the carabiner can cause the screw to undo and the carabiner to open, potentially weakening the strength of the carabiner, or allowing the rope to escape the carabiner completely. Therefore the hitch has to be tied correctly with the braking end on the opposite side of the carabiner than the gate is.
Military use
The Munter hitch is taught on Australian military roping courses as a simple and effective method for descending steep or overhanging terrain with combat equipment and can also be used for lowering heavy stores or casualties, the only equipment required being a harness or webbing seat, a locking carabiner, and a rope.
Arboreal usage
For the recreational tree climber or working arborist, the Munter is useful to know as a reliable lowering knot for moderate loads. This hitch performs well on both 16 strand arborist climbing lines and the 11 mm double braid lines.
Tower technicians
Tower technicians also use this knot for lowering loads, and tagging heavy loads while hoisting. It is commonly referred to in the tower industry as a tag knot.
See also
References
- ↑Clifford W. Ashley. The Ashley Book of Knots. Doubleday, 1944. p. 306.
- ↑Phillips, Ken. "NPS Technical Rescue Handbook"(PDF). Mountain Rescue Association. National Park Service. Retrieved 4 March 2021.
- ↑George, Caroline. "Munter Magic". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2019-04-14.
- ↑"Cai Materiali". CAI Materiali. Retrieved 4 March 2021.
- ↑S. Long, The Climbing Handbook, 64
External links
- How to tie a Munter Hitch with One Hand
- The Munter Hitch tension reduction model at IGKT
- Hitch knots
- Non-jamming knots
- Climbing knots
- Caving knots
- Rappelling equipment